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“It has a poetic presence, and we wanted to honor that,” Christine Gachot tells Vogue. “The palettes of Francis Bacon and Hans Halbein the Younger were on my mood board back then. So was Franco Albini’s Casa Brion, which we often obsess over. There are personal touches too: Johnny’s will be familiar to those who have spent time in my home,” she says. They tapped former Lobster Club chef Carlos Barrera to oversee their “seafood forward” food offerings, which will include towers of crab legs, shrimps, and oysters, smoked mackerel with scallion ginger puree, and hearty crab cakes. Ronson and Braun aren’t the only celebrity investors, by the way: Pete Davidson, Justin Theroux, and Jason Sudeikis are also involved. “It just feels like you don’t need to go anywhere,” Quirarte tells Vogue from Johnny’s, which is currently overflowing with partiers. “People may come in thinking they will stay for five minutes, but they’ll stay for hours.” How so? Quirarte presents this scenario: you walk into the bar thinking you’re going to get a drink. One drink becomes two. Then you’re feeling like some food, so you wander up a level to the restaurant, where scotch and seafood towers flow effortlessly together while yellow taxis zoom down Sixth Avenue. You sign the check, sure, but an espresso martini nightcap is tantalizingly within reach at Johnny’s on the fourth floor. So up you go. “If you make it here,” Quirarte says, gesticulating around the room, “I hope you don’t leave.”
This book focuses not only on dishes cooked in the wok, but also on pantry items and other dishes that accompany wok-cooked meals. Can you talk about that? I started off restricting it to just wok-cooked dishes but as I was writing, I realized that if people are investing in a new piece of equipment they may or may not be familiar with and a bunch of new pantry ingredients, it also makes sense to know other things you can do with them. What I love about the wok is how convenient and practical it is—you have this piece of equipment and you can make a huge variety of dishes. I always recommend carbon steel. It’s tough and lasts a long time. It builds up seasoning and gives food a flavor you can’t get out of stainless steel because of the way the food interacts with the metal. Cast iron is really heavy for something you’re going to be maneuvering (and it’s also thicker and thus more brittle than carbon steel). Nonstick just won’t last because you’re constantly going in there with a spatula and heating to super-high heat. If you live in a city that has a Chinatown or a large Asian population, go to a local Chinese supermarket or restaurant supply shop. You’ll be giving the money direction to manufacturers and woks are virtually all the same as long as you have the right thickness and dimensions. I recommend 14-inch diameter, a flat bottom, and 1.5 to 2 millimeters thick (14 gauge).
While working on his second book, López-Alt first decided to tackle the wok chapter, which had been edited out of The Food Lab. He was a few hundred pages in when he realized this could be the basis for his next cookbook. “The wok is the most used and versatile pan in my kitchen,” he says. “I’ve had the same wok I bought in college on my stovetop in every place I’ve lived for the last 20 years.” I spoke to him ahead of The Wok’s release on March 8 about the myriad cooking techniques achievable in the pan, how to choose the right wok, and the Nickelodeon TV show of his childhood that inspired his learning style. My writing is based on the ways in which I personally feel that I learn best. When I was a kid, [I watched] “Mr. Wizard’s World” on Nickelodeon and the way Don Herbert (Mr. Wizard) taught was to show you cool experiments and the fun things you want to do with the science lessons folded into them. And I always found that I learn best by doing things that are cool and learning about them as I’m doing them. That’s sort of what I try to capture in my writing: Here’s this dish that you know and you love and you want to make it. And now here are some of the principles behind why it works. Here is why Szechuan peppercorns make your mouth tingle. Here’s how a wok heats. And so they kind of feed off each other—you’re interested in the food and in cooking it and because you’re interested in it, you want to read this section with the science lessons folded in. It’s not for everybody, but I feel like there are a lot of people who share similar learning styles.
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